Whereas in Paris in the beginning of the 12 months, I used to be instructed about an eyewear model that was providing one thing that sits between ready-to-wear and bespoke. That’s a theme, by the best way, that I believe we’ll be returning to within the second half of this 12 months.
The model was L’Ingénieur Chevallier, an outdated title that had been purchased by bespoke opticians Maison Bonnet, with the concept of turning it into one thing completely different. Their idea was to create an optician that was extra accessible (and cheaper, and faster) than their bespoke, however which pushed the craftsmanship of ready-made so far as it may go.
So, the frames are available in a number of sizes fairly than only one, making it simpler to suit one to somebody’s face. The employees that match the glasses are educated by Maison Bonnet (by basic status, and in my expertise, among the finest bespoke homes on the earth). And the frames can all be extensively adjusted on web site – not simply heating and bending the arms, however shaving down and reshaping the nostril pad, for instance.
Most of this doesn’t occur wherever else. Prepared-made frames don’t normally are available in a number of completely different sizes, and changes are normally restricted to that arm-bending. It pushes the service into an area above regular RTW.
It’s additionally I believe a superb excuse to speak concerning the diminished high quality of eyewear service typically, which frequently will get ignored.
Lots of people put on glasses that don’t match them. The bend within the arm – that ought to match snugly across the ear – is just too far ahead and so they’re continually pushing them up their nostril. Or the nostril match is poor, and they also have welts beneath.
How the body fits somebody’s face is extra delicate, however nonetheless fundamentals are ceaselessly flawed – like having the ability to see their eyes with out the body getting in the best way. It’s an attention-grabbing space and one we must always cowl extra at some stage; the form of factor I really feel a PS reader values understanding.
A motive behind a few of these points, I believe, is the expansion of cheaper eyewear corporations. A few of these are on-line, others have shops, however even in shops the employees usually aren’t that effectively educated. I’ve been into just a few with buddies the place the employees provided no recommendation in any respect, besides tips on how to unfold the funds.
There are nonetheless some superb opticians round, and actually that’s one other space we must always cowl, as a result of these are usually single, native retailers fairly than manufacturers, and so get much less consideration. A listing of fine ones in main cities (maybe with the help of readers) could possibly be helpful.
My go to to the Pyramides department of L’Ingénieur Chevallier introduced a variety of these ideas effervescent up, as a result of the service was good.
The supervisor was pleased to not simply give recommendation, however clarify how and why it made sense, which I do know PS geeks would love. For instance, the purpose that each face has a pure body that eyewear performs round, fashioned by the eyebrows, the aspect of the nostril, the highest of the cheekbone and the outer fringe of the attention socket.
And there’s a dialogue we’re all acquainted with of what compliments the form of 1’s face – acquainted due to how we discuss it in relation to shirt collars, hats or different menswear that sits across the face.
I’ve a protracted and oval face, for instance, with valuable few sharp angles. It is why a extra angled beard fits me, and it’s why I ought to keep away from ‘smiling’ frames – these with a really rounded outside-bottom nook.
I attempted out the service at L’Ingénieur Chevallier, and after a lot to-and-fro, ended up getting the ‘Louis’ sun shades pictured above.
There’s, in fact, far more leeway with sun shades than optical frames, as a result of the eyes are hidden. However some frames nonetheless go well with folks kind of – most frames are too extensive for my comparatively slim face, for instance.
That is notably related as a result of the pattern in sun shades is for what the supervisor referred to as ‘major participant’ frames – giant, daring shapes meant to make an affect. This pattern can result in folks getting outsized frames that overpower their face.
The glasses price €790, which is quite a bit, however quite a bit lower than Bonnet’s bespoke. Given these got here from a spread designed by Bonnet, had been made in the identical workshop, and had been fitted and adjusted by somebody educated by them, you may see it pretty much as good worth.
Or a minimum of I did, on condition that the entire dialog began as a result of I went into Bonnet able to splurge on a pair of bespoke sun shades to comply with my bespoke opticals from just a few years in the past.
A number of different issues that may possible attraction to PS readers are that L’Ingénieur Chevallier solely carries frames they’ll alter in-house and restore in-house. To allow them to additionally alter the wire-framed designs from Gernot Lindner, and so they don’t use supplies like wooden that may’t be adjusted.
Additionally they don’t carry frames with logos on them, and so they emphasise that repairs and upkeep are a part of the worth of the frames – so they need to be introduced again into the shop often.
Sadly, in the meanwhile L’Ingénieur Chevallier solely has shops in Paris (two of them). But when anybody is within the metropolis I like to recommend visiting, and maybe there will likely be one other someplace quickly.
I haven’t coated something of the historical past of L’Ingénieur Chevallier, by the best way, which is a bizarre one. Making frames for Louis XV, and putting in an enormous thermometre outdoors the store to showcase the worth of scientific progress, for instance. Extra on that right here.
For different items on eyewear over time, together with my varied forays into bespoke, see the ‘Glasses and Jewelry’ part of PS
It’s also possible to learn slightly about my journey with eyewear, and what Frank Bonnet considered my barely eclectic assortment. That was a enjoyable piece.
The shirt pictured is a PS Oxford in pink/white stripe
