This go well with from Korean tailor Assisi has already been teased a few occasions on PS. As soon as throughout the becoming course of in Seoul, the place it frankly appeared impossibly clear. And as soon as after I wore it for our summer time drinks within the Burlington Arcade.
No go well with ever seems fairly as clear as that becoming, at the very least as quickly as it’s worn for a bit, and the wearer is striding round reasonably than standing inventory nonetheless. The sharp high-twist wool from Drapers – the Ascot four-ply – additionally helped.
However I’m very pleased with the go well with. It’s a wonderful model, nicely fitted, and I’ve been having fun with sporting it much more than I assumed I’d – in each the methods proven right here: open-necked and sometimes unbuttoned, with a linen shirt and suede loafers; and formally with a tie and sharp oxford. It may do a marriage and a wise backyard celebration as simply as a sunny day about city.
In my first overview of Assisi, I subtly challenged Dabin and Min Soo to realize the identical nice slot in a light-weight summer time fabric. They’ve definitely achieved that.
With the primary tweed jacket (above), there was a little bit of debate backwards and forwards about shoulder width and lapel dimension. We had one becoming in Florence and two in Japan the place it was mentioned.
I ought to have simply left it as much as them, as a result of Dabin all the time seems great in his double-breasteds and this go well with has a barely extra balanced, pleasing model this time, once they’ve made all the alternatives.
It’s nonetheless a roomy match, just like the tweed, however not a lot that you would put on any thickness of sweater beneath. It’s drapey, making it very comfy and in addition making it cooler (one thing usually forgotten within the dialogue of summer time tailoring).
And I like the model. It’s the antithesis of the tight-and-short noughties look, the one which originated with the expansion of Italian modernist manufacturers within the nineties, dominated the expansion of menswear from 2008 onwards, and which nonetheless hangs round to a boring diploma.
That is bigger, extra eighties but in addition extra Nineteen Thirties. I’m positive all of the classic followers might be blissful about this – and maybe take the immediate to put on the identical lower of tailoring however in an unfussy model.
The key phrase for me is balanced. The lapel is large however not too large – pointing to the shoulder however not flying off it. The buttoning level is balanced too – I have a tendency in the direction of pushing this a bit decrease nowadays, however the proportions listed below are nice and that’s a very powerful factor. It’s extra reasonable, and fewer more likely to date in consequence.
The trousers are increased rise and pleated. This isn’t my regular model, however I have already got trousers in that model in the same fabric from this Cornacchia go well with, so it was a chance to experiment a bit.
I like the truth that while you put on a belt with this type of rise, the physique is shortened and subsequently proportionately widened, but the trouser peak doesn’t look too old style as a result of the belt covers the highest inch or so. For those who like higher-rise trousers, sporting a belt like it is a good choice.
These two pictures above additionally present how good the ending is on this go well with. You possibly can see the little bar tacks on the pleats of the trousers, and the choose stitching across the coin pocket above it. A pal in Korea instructed me not too long ago that the most important change prior to now 10 years has been how a lot the stitching amongst native tailors has improved – not the model or match, however the fineness of the work.
That ending is obvious on the fineness of the jets on the pockets as nicely; see earlier article right here for a way and why that may be indicator of the standard of labor.
If I’ve any quibble in any respect, it’s a small one in regards to the roping of the sleevehead on one facet. I like the naturalness of the shoulder, ending in a smooth and refined roping. However there’s one level on the left shoulder the place maybe the fullness may very well be smoother. A small factor and in addition very fixable.
The buttons, by the best way, are a pale mushroomy corozo. The extra customary alternative might need been a dark-brown horn (blond horn could be good however extra for a jacket). However I like how the greyish shade has labored. It makes it a contact smarter maybe, however that’s all.
Within the tieless outfit proven, the go well with is worn with a white linen shirt from D’Avino, a Rubato brown-suede belt and Piccadilly brown-suede loafers from Edward Inexperienced. The sun shades are from Clan Milano, by way of Connolly.
The tie within the different outfit is from Shibumi (an previous model, not obtainable) and the sneakers are my bespoke black wingtips from Cleverley. There’s one thing pleasingly old-world about the best way that chiselled shoe seems with the broader, cuffed trouser leg.
At our summer time drinks, I wore a brown Drake’s tie (woven silk once more) with my dark-brown Yohei Fukuda oxfords (proven under).
I’m nonetheless within the early levels of figuring out what mixtures I like, and so naturally beginning merely and conservatively. Sooner or later I sit up for attempting the go well with with different issues, similar to a pink shirt or maybe a black one.
Assisi have moved areas in Seoul by the best way, so I’ve included just a few pictures of the brand new atelier under. I by no means visited the primary one, which was proven on our introductory article on them, however it appeared prefer it had the same vibe: modernist, clear and quiet.
The becoming room is especially good, as you’ve home windows on three sides that look down the hill to the river, in addition to up the steep streets round.
Since our first article on Assisi, their recognition has grown and they’re now travelling to New York in addition to to Singapore, Bangkok and Sydney in Asia. There are not any present plans to go to the UK commonly, sadly.
Trunk reveals are performed by way of The Decorum in Singapore and Bangkok and thru The Finery Firm in Sydney.
Bespoke fits begin at $2,950 and jackets $2,300. The material proven is Drapers four-ply, from the Ascot bunch. Code 18050, 370g.
Assisi additionally supply an MTO service, with costs $2,360 for a go well with and $1,840 for a jacket. That is made precisely the identical as bespoke, however to a ready-made block with no becoming, simply choice of model and fabric. It nonetheless needs to be commissioned at a trunk present or in Seoul.
For those who have loved our ‘walkie talkie’ movies not too long ago on Instagram, I can even do one on this go well with, to point out it in movement.
