A menswear buying information – Everlasting Model


 

New York is an odd city for menswear. It doesn’t have the identical conventional outlets as Europe and bespoke is considerably undermined by guests from Savile Row. If there’s a custom, it’s for worth and malls: low-priced fits at one excessive and glorified shop-in-shops on the different. 

So the place does the crafted, sartorial menswear we love slot in? Across the edges. In locations just like the Armoury, on-line showrooms like No Man Walks Alone, and multi-brand outlets which have established with their very own native following, comparable to Leffot or CHCM. 

It’s additionally nice for classic, with excess of London. And there’s a rising variety of good informal or workwear outlets. The most important change since this listing was final up to date in 2015 is that malls have change into more and more irrelevant, and outlets like Stoffa, Wythe and Buck Mason have opened. 

This information is the a part of a sequence on Everlasting Model. You may see the remaining right here. It’s price reiterating the overall guidelines we use for inclusion:  

  • The guides are to high quality clothes. Solely outlets producing at a excessive grade are included
  • We solely cowl menswear, with a major leaning in the direction of sartorial menswear
  • We lean closely in the direction of outlets which can be distinctive to town. So massive chains are excluded, whereas some with a small variety of places are admitted
  • The listing doesn’t faux to be complete. It expands each time it’s reviewed, however continues to be extra in regards to the locations we all know than a listing of all of them

 

 

TAILORING AND BESPOKE

The Armoury
thearmoury.com
168 Duane St and 13 E69th St

The store based in Hong Kong now has two branches in New York, one in Tribeca and a brand new one uptown. Accountable bringing in manufacturers like Ring Jacket, St Crispin’s and Carmina over time, plus a daily sequence of bespoke artisans, and retains a superb vary of RTW and MTM tailoring in numerous totally different kinds.

J Mueser
jmueser.com
19 Christopher St

The opposite apparent possibility for tailoring, down on Christopher St within the West Village. A terrific environment and maybe a youthful providing, the Mueser boys have some RTW, totally different MTM choices and even a full bespoke (benchmade) possibility. Additionally shirt, knits, equipment. 

Paul Stuart
www.paulstuart.com
354 Madison Ave

Paul Stuart has at all times been one among our favorite shops. It’s arrange how massive menswear shops must be: chock filled with well-made, classically styled clothes and accessories, with free alterations and educated employees. The sock choice alone is price a go to. 

 


New York bespoke: Paolo Martorano
and Leonard Logsdail
www.paolostyle.com
130 W57th St
leonardlogsdail.com
9 E 53rd St

The 2 bespoke tailors in New York I do know and would definitely suggest. Paolo makes a softer coat, Len a extra structured one, however each are actual bespoke and do what they are saying they may. I’ve coated Paolo moderately extra, and you’ll see a full evaluation right here

There are numerous different smaller tailors, none of whom we now have tried, however we did cowl in some element right here. The feedback on that piece are as helpful because the article. Though I haven’t skilled it myself, Alan Flusser’s made-to-measure is price mentioning for anybody that’s a fan of his writing.

International bespoke: Huntsman, Cad & The Dandy, Thom Sweeney
Huntsman and Cad are each within the constructing at 130 W 57th St
www.huntsmansavilerow.com
www.cadandthedandy.co.uk
Thom Sweeney are in Soho, at 362 W Broadway
thomsweeney.com

A major addition because the final model of this information is bodily places of English bespoke choices. You felt it was going to occur ultimately, given how a lot simpler it’s to journey around the US from New York, and have a everlasting base that US prospects can go to at any time. Of those, Huntsman is the Savile Row stalwart and the most costly; Thom Sweeney is a youthful fashion, although additionally getting dearer today. 

In fact, many tailors and different craftspeople go to New York fairly often, however this information is for these primarily based within the metropolis, which you’re extra more likely to be travelling to see.

Shirtmakers: Geneva and Cego
genevacustomshirts.com, 65 W fifty fifth St
www.cego.com, 10 E twenty third St

Geneva is not far away from that W 57th St tackle with all of the tailors. Not a glamorous store, however an actual workroom the place Eugene makes his personal patterns and cuts on-site. Not one thing you see in midtown Manhattan a lot today. 

Cego is a much bigger enterprise, making some shirts in-house but in addition sending others to a manufacturing unit over the river in New Jersey. Fashionable as a an entry-level possibility, additionally they do a variety of TV and movie work (as does Geneva).


OTHER SARTORIAL CLOTHING

Leffot
leffot.com
10 Christopher St

Prime right here solely as a result of it was first. I nonetheless keep in mind clearly strolling into Leffot the week it opened, and pondering what a breath of recent air it was. Years later, it stays the very best shoe store in New York.

Belgian Footwear
belgianshoes.com
110 E55th St

The Belgian Loafers store is just not giant or particularly spectacular, but it surely stays just about the one place you should purchase the soft-made footwear with the little bows, which have one thing of a cult following. They’ve gone up significantly in value in recent times, maybe as a mirrored image of that following.

JJ Hat Heart and Value & Value
www.jjhatcenter.com
310 fifth Avenue
www.hatshop.com
263 Bowery

There isn’t a plethora of hat outlets in New York, however two deserve point out. The primary is JJ Hat Heart, because it has historical past on its facet (in New York since 1911) and has the very best vary of advantageous males’s hats within the metropolis – felts, straws and so forth. The opposite is Value & Value, which is a bit more fashion-led, with designs by Orlando Palacios. A number of the hats are made within the workshop on website.

J Press (and Pennant Label)
Jpressonline.com
51 East forty fourth Road

J Press has a popularity for being just a little stuffy and old style, however the high quality of the merchandise is nice and constant, so all that basically wants including is a few private fashion. There are nice Aran knits, made in Eire, and never too conventional/boxy a match. The ‘Shaggy Canine’ shetlands should not solely super-soft, however in some fairly up to date colors. And the tailoring is clearly gentle and unstructured, which feels moderately up to date right this moment.

They not too long ago opened a devoted retailer for the trimmer, cheaper line ‘Pennant Label’, which is at 501 Madison Avenue.


Ralph Lauren Rhinelander Mansion
www.ralphlauren.com
867 Madison Avenue

In moderately the identical vein as we included Giorgio Armani in Milan, the Rhinelander Mansion needs to be talked about in New York. There are hundreds of thousands of Ralph Lauren outlets, however none of them are fairly like this one. I significantly just like the Purple Label ground with extra expansive tailoring than London, and the higher flooring usually have previews of upcoming seasons.

Sid Mashburn and Todd Snyder
www.toddsnyder.com, 25 E twenty sixth St (flagship)
shopmashburn.com, 926 Madison Avenue

Each menswear manufacturers with shops elsewhere, however not exterior the US, so for non-Individuals these are attention-grabbing locations to go to for a spread of basic and barely extra informal clothes. Mashburn tends to the slim and quick, however the style stage is stable. Snyder is commonly finest for its collaborations with numerous heritage manufacturers.

Alden Madison Avenue
aldenmadison.com
340 Madison Avenue

Alden footwear have change into more and more fashionable as kinds trended in the direction of the informal. It’s bought so unhealthy that inventory usually takes months to reach at stockists, and costs have risen inexorably. For followers of Alden then, the flagship retailer on Madison Avenue is price a go to, because it has the largest vary of kinds of any stockist, with the one key exception coming subsequent…

Moulded Shoe
www.mouldedshoeny.com
10 E thirty ninth St

An old style shoe retailer that focuses on consolation and orthopaedic necessities. Not the type of place PS would usually head to, have been it not for the truth that it’s one among only a few locations on the earth that sells Alden footwear on their modified final. And the opposite main one, Anatomica in Paris, has moderately explicit concepts of how the footwear ought to match. Devoted PS article right here


CASUAL CLOTHING

No Man Walks Alone
www.nomanwalksalone.com
336 W thirty seventh St

No Man Walks Alone is an internet retailer, moderately than a retailer, however anybody can contact the blokes and make an appointment to go to their warehouse on thirty seventh avenue, and over time this has change into extra customer-facing. The clothes has is trending extra informal, but it surely’s a fantastic one for small European and Japanese manufacturers. 

Stoffa
stoffa.co
125 Grand St

Lengthy a PS favorite, Stoffa has simply opened its first bodily shopfront, having began with trunk exhibits and for the previous few years operated from an upper-floor showroom. The clothes is well-made and craft-focused, free and cozy. The fashion is distinctive, plain and tonal. See PS opinions and protection of Stoffa on their model web page right here

CHCM
Chcmshop.com
2 Bond Road

CHCM is just a little retailer on a decrease floor ground in Noho, and simple to overlook. Run by Englishman Sweetu Patel, it’s a little bit of an establishment and arguably the very best multi-brand retailer in New York. There’s LEJ, Paraboot and Arpenteur, but in addition Veilance, MAN-TLE and Auralee. The white-box environment may put some readers off initially, but it surely’s price taking the time to browse and look just a little deeper.

Buck Mason
www.buckmason.com
170 fifth Avenue (Flat Iron retailer)

Based mostly in California, Buck Mason has expanded in recent times (now 30 shops throughout the US), ratcheted up its high quality and made it’s fashion extra basic. It’s now a very good possibility for any PS reader that desires a extremely stable T-shirt, a fantastic pair of chinos, a good-value pair of denims. The color palette is intentionally slender, making the whole lot wearable and versatile – nice for casualwear staples. 

Wythe
wythenewyork.com
59 Orchard St

One other current addition to the PS world. Wythe is a western-inspired model making at a barely decrease high quality stage than manufacturers like Bryceland’s or The Actual McCoy’s, however usually with a fantastic style stage, significantly round color. Notably really useful are the flannel shirts and sweats. Like RRL, however higher worth and possibly extra attention-grabbing. 


Colbo
colbo.nyc
51 Orchard St

Simply down the street from Wythe is an attention-grabbing multi-brand retailer, Colbo, that additionally homes a small cafe, a vinyl choice, and a rack of two of classic clothes. A lot of the clothes will likely be just a little too fashion-led for PS readers, but it surely’s price popping in should you’re already visiting Wythe, Bode, or Desert Classic. 

Commonplace & Unusual
standardandstrange.com
238 Mulberry St

Just lately opened, Commonplace & Unusual is likely one of the finest places in New York now for Japanese workwear manufacturers, and specifically for The Actual McCoy’s. Additionally noteworthy is the vary from Freenote and the boot choice. Aimé Leon Dore is throughout the road, which can also be price a stroll spherical. It’s just a little hype-driven and the worth isn’t nice in consequence, however the fashion is at all times attention-grabbing. 

Blue in Inexperienced
www.blueingreensoho.com
8 Greene St

The longer standing dwelling of high quality workwear in New York, having blazed the path again in 2006. Finest identified for his or her denim, Blue in Inexperienced is nice for Full Depend and Buzz Rickson, and has a smattering of extra fashion-forward manufacturers like Kapital. In recent times they’ve advanced into doing just a little below their very own title. 

Self Edge
www.selfedge.com
157 Orchard St

The opposite good location for denim and high quality workwear is the San Francisco-headquartered Self Edge, which began similtaneously Blue in Inexperienced again in 2006 (keep in mind the nice heritage revival?) and now has 4 shops within the US in addition to one in Mexico. It’s additionally not removed from Wythe and Colbo, on the Decrease East Aspect. 


VINTAGE

New York, and specifically Brooklyn, has a powerful vary of classic outlets – higher than wherever in Europe that we all know. Listed below are our favourites, and there’s a devoted story about New York classic buying right here.

10ft Single by Stella Dallas
@10ftSingleByStellaDallas
285 N sixth St, Brooklyn

Large, with a entrance room that’s newer, cheaper classic and a again room that’s the older, higher stuff. An actual vary from army to sportswear. At all times the primary place to go. 

Stella Dallas Dwelling
@StellaDallasLiving
281 N sixth St, Brooklyn

The unique store, promoting cloth and haberdashery gadgets. You may suppose it’s not that related, however really there’s usually boro cloth, Hudson’s Bay blankets, Pendleton, Chimayo and so forth, in addition to buttons and different materials. 

Raggedy Threads
www.raggedythreads.com
602 Grand Road, Brooklyn

Not far-off in Brooklyn, the associate to the unique LA store. Centered just a little extra on historic or authentic clothes (moderately like Inventory Classic in Manhattan) and generally issues are just a little too raggedy, however there are some gems too. 

Entrance Normal Retailer
frontgeneralstore.com
143 Entrance Road, Brooklyn

A store on the bottom ground of Dumbo with an attention-grabbing show of classic: new items on the entrance, curated racks of second-hand clothes subsequent (eg all 90s Wrangler shirts), adopted by extra treasured classic. Then, upstairs, a brand new store known as FGS Outpost that has a fantastic choice of designer classic alongside a few of their own-brand equipment. 

Crowley Classic
@crowley_vintage
68 Jay St, Suite 303, Brooklyn (open Saturday, appointment solely Tues-Fri)

Not far away from Entrance Normal, on the third ground of a warehouse-style constructing, is Sean Crowley’s assortment of outdated Ralph Lauren and the whole lot that evokes that fashion – from Savile Row tailoring and polo coats to authentic madras shirts and using boots. Most likely my favorite classic retailer in New York. Crowley was planning on shifting on the time of writing, however with no confirmed date. Devoted article right here.

Inventory Classic
@StockVintageNYC
143 East thirteenth Road

Again in Manhattan, an enthralling small retailer run by Melissa Howard, who makes most of her cash from designers on the lookout for inspiration. Certainly, she’s toyed with closing the retail store, and retains the door closed more often than not (the store is open, however the metallic frames and closed door imply passers-by don’t simply wander in). The inventory tends to the older finish of the classic spectrum, largely twenties to fifties, with some very outdated. Costs are comparatively excessive in consequence. 

Church Road Surplus
churchstreetsurplus.com
327 Church Road

Simply off Canal Road, a ramshackle place however with a variety of army classic. Go in realizing what you’re on the lookout for and also you’ll discover a dozen examples someplace on the lengthy double-height racks. 

Sri Threads
www.srithreads.com
18 Eckford Road, #2A, Brooklyn (appointment solely)

A specialist in Japanese materials and associated gadgets. Area of interest subsequently, however actually lovely – the type of place that makes you fall in love with the best way that indigo cloth fades. See devoted PS article right here

 



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