This swimsuit from Korean tailor Assisi has already been teased a few occasions on PS. As soon as throughout the becoming course of in Seoul, the place it frankly appeared impossibly clear. And as soon as once I wore it for our summer time drinks within the Burlington Arcade.
No swimsuit ever seems to be fairly as clear as that becoming, not less than as quickly as it’s worn for a bit, and the wearer is striding round somewhat than standing inventory nonetheless. The sharp high-twist wool from Drapers – the Ascot four-ply – additionally helped.
However I’m very proud of the swimsuit. It’s a wonderful fashion, properly fitted, and I’ve been having fun with carrying it much more than I believed I’d – in each the methods proven right here: open-necked and infrequently unbuttoned, with a linen shirt and suede loafers; and formally with a tie and sharp oxford. It may do a marriage and a sensible backyard occasion as simply as a sunny day about city.
In my first overview of Assisi, I subtly challenged Dabin and Min Soo to attain the identical nice slot in a light-weight summer time material. They’ve definitely achieved that.
With the primary tweed jacket (above), there was a little bit of debate backwards and forwards about shoulder width and lapel measurement. We had one becoming in Florence and two in Japan the place it was mentioned.
I ought to have simply left it as much as them, as a result of Dabin all the time seems to be great in his double-breasteds and this swimsuit has a barely extra balanced, pleasing fashion this time, once they’ve made all the alternatives.
It’s nonetheless a roomy match, just like the tweed, however not a lot that you possibly can put on any thickness of sweater beneath. It’s drapey, making it very snug and in addition making it cooler (one thing typically forgotten within the dialogue of summer time tailoring).
And I really like the fashion. It’s the antithesis of the tight-and-short noughties look, the one which originated with the expansion of Italian modernist manufacturers within the nineties, dominated the expansion of menswear from 2008 onwards, and which nonetheless hangs round to a boring diploma.
That is bigger, extra eighties but in addition extra Nineteen Thirties. I’m positive all of the classic followers will probably be completely happy about this – and maybe take the immediate to put on the identical minimize of tailoring however in an unfussy fashion.
The key phrase for me is balanced. The lapel is broad however not too broad – pointing to the shoulder however not flying off it. The buttoning level is balanced too – I have a tendency in direction of pushing this a bit of decrease nowadays, however the proportions listed here are nice and that’s crucial factor. It’s extra average, and fewer more likely to date consequently.
The trousers are greater rise and pleated. This isn’t my regular fashion, however I have already got trousers in that fashion in an analogous material from this Cornacchia swimsuit, so it was a possibility to experiment a bit.
I like the truth that if you put on a belt with this type of rise, the physique is shortened and subsequently proportionately widened, but the trouser top doesn’t look too old school as a result of the belt covers the highest inch or so. For those who like higher-rise trousers, carrying a belt like it is a good possibility.
These two pictures above additionally present how good the ending is on this swimsuit. You’ll be able to see the little bar tacks on the pleats of the trousers, and the choose stitching across the coin pocket above it. A pal in Korea advised me lately that the largest change prior to now 10 years has been how a lot the stitching amongst native tailors has improved – not the fashion or match, however the fineness of the work.
That ending is obvious on the fineness of the jets on the pockets as properly; see earlier article right here for a way and why that may be a very good indicator of the standard of labor.
If I’ve any quibble in any respect, it’s a small one in regards to the roping of the sleevehead on one aspect. I really like the naturalness of the shoulder, ending in a smooth and delicate roping. However there’s one level on the left shoulder the place maybe the fullness could possibly be smoother. A small factor and in addition very fixable.
The buttons, by the best way, are a pale mushroomy corozo. The extra commonplace selection may need been a dark-brown horn (blond horn might be good however extra for a jacket). However I like how the greyish shade has labored. It makes it a contact smarter maybe, however that’s all.
Within the tieless outfit proven, the swimsuit is worn with a white linen shirt from D’Avino, a Rubato brown-suede belt and Piccadilly brown-suede loafers from Edward Inexperienced. The sun shades are from Clan Milano, through Connolly.
The tie within the different outfit is from Shibumi (an outdated fashion, not accessible) and the sneakers are my bespoke black wingtips from Cleverley. There’s one thing pleasingly old-world about the best way that chiselled shoe seems to be with the broader, cuffed trouser leg.
At our summer time drinks, I wore a brown Drake’s tie (woven silk once more) with my dark-brown Yohei Fukuda oxfords (proven under).
I’m nonetheless within the early phases of understanding what combos I like, and so naturally beginning merely and conservatively. Sooner or later I look ahead to attempting the swimsuit with different issues, corresponding to a pink shirt or maybe a black one.
Assisi have moved areas in Seoul by the best way, so I’ve included a number of pictures of the brand new atelier under. I by no means visited the primary one, which was proven on our introductory article on them, nevertheless it appeared prefer it had an analogous vibe: modernist, clear and quiet.
The becoming room is especially good, as you’ve home windows on three sides that look down the hill to the river, in addition to up the steep streets round.
Since our first article on Assisi, their reputation has grown and they’re now travelling to New York in addition to to Singapore, Bangkok and Sydney in Asia. There aren’t any present plans to go to the UK usually, sadly.
Trunk exhibits are performed by means of The Decorum in Singapore and Bangkok and thru The Finery Firm in Sydney.
Bespoke fits begin at $2,950 and jackets $2,300. The fabric proven is Drapers four-ply, from the Ascot bunch. Code 18050, 370g.
Assisi additionally provide an MTO service, with costs $2,360 for a swimsuit and $1,840 for a jacket. That is made precisely the identical as bespoke, however to a ready-made block with no becoming, simply collection of fashion and material. It nonetheless must be commissioned at a trunk present or in Seoul.
For those who have loved our ‘walkie talkie’ movies lately on Instagram, I may even do one on this swimsuit, to point out it in movement.
