Three years in the past, I coated the German outfit Massura, who have been providing a well-priced bespoke and MTM service made in Naples. Nonetheless the jacket they made me had some substantial points, which I coated in a overview within the regular, sincere method we do on PS.
I did not hear from them for some time, and I assumed they’d moved on. However the founder Moritz obtained in contact once more final 12 months, and it turned out he had taken the overview to coronary heart and considerably modified the enterprise.
A earlier collaborator, Vlad, had come on board as co-owner and so they had moved to a brand new producer, slowly introducing the product and taking a number of suggestions. Additionally they reworked their patterns, together with altering how the jacket labored on somebody like me with sloping shoulders.
The failure on this space (beneath) was the largest difficulty coated within the first overview, and I had all the time discovered it odd that the match was so a lot better on Moritz himself than it was on me.
Different adjustments they’ve gone by way of embrace opening a bodily retailer in Munich, and largely abandoning digital fittings as too unreliable (certainly one of my three appointments was carried out over Zoom).
This course of was accomplished final 12 months, and so they requested if they might make one other jacket to be able to present how a lot the product had improved. I used to be impressed with their angle – few folks take important protection on Everlasting Type that constructively. Or in the event that they do, they don’t inform me about it.
The brand new jacket they made was certainly higher, and you’ll see the ends in these pictures. It used a unique cloth – Fox Tweed TD12 – however the fashion and stage of make was in any other case the identical.
As with the earlier producer, the top-end MTM service makes use of a number of handwork, together with hand-making the chest, attaching the collar and sleeves by hand, and hand stitching buttonholes. There isn’t the identical stage of iron work and shaping as bespoke, however the larger distinction with bespoke is the becoming reasonably than the making.
The MTM makes use of blocks reasonably than beginning a sample from scratch, and there may be usually one intermediate becoming, with an unfinished jacket. That is in some methods a step up for MTM although, as you usually get a completed jacket the place solely comparatively small adjustments (eg facet seam, sleeve size) are attainable.
With mine, we really had two intermediate fittings, simply because Moritz have been uncertain concerning the lapel fashion, which I had modified a bit by decreasing the gorge.
That gorge (the peak of the ‘notch’ within the lapel) is the one factor I might increase as a attainable difficulty for PS readers, as Massura’s default fashion is barely Italian-style jackets with design factors like that greater gorge. You’ll be able to see this pretty clearly from the tailoring on their web site and I’ve included a few pattern pictures beneath.
In fact, with bespoke you may change lots of this stuff, and you’ll fairly just a few with MTM too. However I’ve all the time mentioned it’s greatest going with a tailor that you just just like the fashion of, if you happen to can. There’ll all the time be stuff you don’t suppose to specify.
I’ve solely worn the jacket a few occasions (it’s a bit heavy for the season) however up to now it’s carried out properly.
Moritz does like greater vents on the again of the jacket, partly as a result of he finds it improves the match, however I’m undecided I like them that a lot. I would get them tacked a bit decrease down. In any other case there isn’t a lot I’d change.
The fabric, curiously, I’ve discovered a bit tough, because the brighter blue flecks don’t make it fairly as versatile as plain blue. I do love the Fox Tweed high quality although, which by no means wears as heat as the burden (17oz) would recommend.
One of many causes I’d proceed to focus on Massura is that there’s so little good tailoring out there in Germany. There’s Maximilian Mogg in Berlin, however that gained’t be to everybody’s style. There’s the ex-Anderson & Sheppard cutter James Whitfield in Berlin too, however usually it’s shops providing Italian manufacturers – and never that lots of these.
Massura’s costs have gone up a bit since final time, however stay good worth. There are three ranges:
- MTM Normal. Largely machine made, €1800 for a go well with, €1300 for a jacket
- MTM Handmade. What I had, €2350-2700 for a go well with, €1750-2000 for a jacket
- Bespoke. As you’d count on, €3000-3400 for a go well with, €2200-€2400 for a jacket
All costs embrace 19% Germany VAT.
Trunk exhibits are in London and Frankfurt. The previous each three months, the latter each 6-8 weeks.
Different garments proven:
- PS Oxford shirt in pink/white stripe
- Charcoal flannel trousers, made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury in Fox fabric
- Black-calf Piccadilly loafers from Edward Inexperienced
- Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso watch in yellow gold on a black-alligator strap
Inexperienced jacket garments particulars on the unique Massura article
