A number of readers have requested over time a few suede overshirt on PS – significantly following the collection of articles we did this time final 12 months, on jacket substitutes like overshirts, chores and tebas.
So when we visited the suede workshop Rifugio in Naples final 12 months (above), I started the method of speaking to them about making an overshirt collectively. I had recognized Rifugio via the designer manufacturers they made for, however that was my first publicity to their very own work, and it was spectacular.
From the beginning, we had two key necessities. One, we needed to make use of the best suede accessible. We knew this might make the overshirt costly, but it surely was the standard Rifugio made for these designers, and I needed to supply the identical factor to readers.
And two, I needed the identical design and sizing as the linen overshirt with Luca Avitabile. This was as a result of readers like that design a lot – with its clear look however hidden pockets – but in addition as a result of it meant sizing can be straightforward. Tons of of readers already personal a linen overshirt, so they might know precisely how the suede would match and performance.
Thankfully Luca and Alfonso Rifugio knew one another, so the collaboration was easy. Patterns have been shared and a prototype created.
I’ve been carrying that prototype and the manufacturing pattern that adopted rather a lot prior to now couple of months. One factor I’ve learnt is that the shirt is fairly versatile, from cool climate to sizzling.
You’ll be able to put on it within the method above, with a cashmere crewneck beneath, denims and boots, and it really works as a practical spring outer layer. Or, you may put on it with only a T-shirt, linen trousers and loafers, and it’s good for summer season.
Not the peak of summer season after all – not 30+ levels – however it can most likely be at the very least two months earlier than we get to these temperatures within the UK, maybe much more. There’s quite a lot of this ‘transitional’ climate to come back, after which within the autumn as nicely.
I used to be additionally actually happy with the color. I needed one thing that could possibly be versatile, as we’d initially offer it in only one. The primary prototype was a pale sand, and that wasn’t proper. For the second pattern, I selected a lightweight brown, and that turned out extra tobacco-like than I anticipated.
However as I began to put on this color – pictured – the extra I preferred it. It’s extra muted than the tobacco you usually see in menswear (and than the Linen Overshirts) and darker too.
A great illustration is that whereas the Suede Overshirt works nicely with the denim, gray and olive proven within the outfits on this article, it’s additionally very cool with black. I wore it final weekend with a white T-shirt, black denims and black loafers, and it was nice. A extra orange-y color would have seemed stark, and somewhat low cost.
Apart from that outfit – which I can shoot later in the summertime or maybe embrace in some socials – I needed to point out immediately that the overshirt was good with denim and cotton, with denims and tailor-made trousers, and with neutrals and color.
So the outfit above is inexperienced high-twist trousers, a blue/white shirt, brown suede loafers and a conker-coloured tote. You’ll be able to see how good the tobacco is with these autumnal tones.
However the different warm-weather outfit is all neutrals – white and beige, under. Once more a stronger tobacco color would look stark and even somewhat low cost in this sort of outfit.
The overshirt has all the good particulars of the Linen Overshirt:
- Deep, flapped chest pockets
- Hand pockets which might be hidden discreetly under
- Inside patch pocket on the hip (above)
- Variegated horn buttons
- Shirt cuffs, enabling them to be rolled again in hotter climate (under)
- A collar that appears good up or down, and folds elegantly ahead on the ends when up
The one adjustments to the linen overshirt are that the field pleat has been eliminated (because it didn’t work that nicely in suede) and the hips have been enlarged barely (as they stick extra there than the linen).
The buttonholes, collar and so forth aren’t sewn by hand, however the work all through is ok and exact – the extent of labor you’d count on for this high quality of fabric. I significantly like the way in which the highest of the pockets and the seam above them are completed (prime picture).
The Suede Overshirt is accessible on the PS store now. The value is £1550 plus VAT, which is a step above most merchandise we provide, however nice worth in the identical means – the best suede merely prices this a lot, as you may see from comparable merchandise at Purple Label, Attolini or others.
We haven’t made that many, because it’s a little bit of an experiment, so in case you are certain you need one I’d go for it now fairly than ready for one more restock to avoid wasting on delivery. I do need it to be one thing we proceed to promote although – so so long as this batch goes nicely, we’ll provide it once more.
The scale chart is included on the product web page, although as I mentioned it’s the identical because the Linen Overshirt, apart from that little enhance within the hips.
Any questions, as ever, please ask within the feedback.
Restocked: Undershirt and shorts
Within the spirit of getting fewer store emails, we’re additionally utilizing this chance to let readers know that two merchandise have simply been restocked within the PS Store: the PS undershirt and shorts.
Sadly, the model we initially developed this product with, Hamilton & Hare, is now not in enterprise. However we have now managed to speak to the unique manufacturing unit and at the moment are providing precisely the identical product ourselves. It is the identical light-weight, naturally stretchy cotton, made in a sports-style seamless development. Full particulars on it right here.
A little bit of a perennial this one. The model has advanced over time, however has at all times been widespread. Made by Rota in Italy, it was designed to be a mean, on a regular basis brief, simply with some little sartorial touches like pleats and turn-ups. This 12 months solely the navy and the khaki have been restocked, because the olive material was not accessible. Double pleats have been additionally widespread final 12 months, so we have caught with these.
Different updates:
Linen Harrington – Restocked in navy, and with new Artwork du Lin brown color (under)
Dartmoor and Best Crewneck – Restocked in cream and gray, and navy and darkish gray, respectively
Oxford shirts and material – Restocked in white, blue, blue stripe, inexperienced stripe and pink stripe
T-shirts – Later this month
Chambray and denim shirts – Later this month
