G-Star and Walter Van Beirendonck are taking a ballsy method to denim with their capsule assortment for spring 2025.
The lineup of 19 items, named “Denim With Balls,” was offered through the Belgian designer’s spring style present. It was a melding of Van Beirendonck’s deft craftsmanship with G-Star’s denim know-how.
The end result? Uncooked denim clothes made with minimal stitching and — as an alternative — gluing and taping.
“At G-Star, we’re all the time on the lookout for people who we name best-in-class — so the people who encourage us, which are doing one thing actually totally different,” defined Gwenda van Vliet, chief advertising officer of G-Star. “Walter is an individual like that.
“We love his creativity, innovation. It’s rebellious, it’s daring, it’s playful,” she continued. “While you take a look at the end result, it actually exhibits our perception that there’s no restrict to what denim can do. We like to put issues the other way up and do issues in a different way.”
Van Beirendonck has lengthy been a grasp of that.
“Once I began up, they actually gave me carte blanche to do no matter I wished,” he mentioned. “I might have executed one thing loopy, or one thing enormous or massive, however I actually wished to make [wearable] garments.”
He had in thoughts how the style world is evolving, with its manufacturing shifting globally to maintain costs low. However there’s a discrepancy.
“There was no evolution in any respect in the best way of creating garments,” mentioned Van Beirendonck. “The stitching machine was all the time there, and it’s nonetheless there.”
Different industries’ technological revolution handed style by. The denims of the longer term, Van Beirendonck believed, can be with out stitching. So he glued and taped clothes collectively.
“It has a really technological look, however on the identical time, it’s a brand new manner of working with craftsmanship. It’s actually combining these two worlds,” he mentioned.
The capsule consists of Sq. Denims, Wader Denims, Embossed Pamflet Denims and Future Proof Jacket.
There’s a 3D impact on the Cradle to Cradle licensed denim, coming with embossed dots — or balls — phrases and textual content, such because the designer’s slogans “Future Proof,” “Wow” and “Sew Much less.” That’s additionally evident within the sweaters, sweatshirts and tops.
“I noticed it as a futuristic manner of manufacturing clothes with a form of robotic or machine, which is taking it over,” mentioned Van Beirendonck. “Like that we are able to most likely produce once more in Europe. It’s actually that form of considering: How can we do one thing which is extra sustainable, extra future-proof.”
The embossed dots helped inform the capsule’s title.
“These balls are actually on the denims,” mentioned Van Beirendonck, including the title is supposed to be a bit kinky.
Balls served as a leitmotif in different components of Van Beirendonck’s spring assortment, too.
“The slogans I’m utilizing are: ‘The world explodes, and I’m dreaming. The world explodes, and I’m joyful. The world explodes, and I’m dancing,’” mentioned the designer. “It’s actually that form of double feeling. The second that we live in is so robust and arduous, however nonetheless we now have to attempt to be optimistic, joyful.”
He’s had a long-standing fascination for classic clown pictures.
“I went again to that form of temper, as a result of I actually discovered it very becoming with the second we’re dwelling in,” mentioned Van Beirendonck. “It’s this actually happy-and-sad second, which is often additionally the clown determine.”
His present’s staging channeled this dichotomy. By means of the huge botanical backyard hidden behind Paris’ College of Pharmacy, fashions with clown-like attributes — suppose a crimson, pointy nostril or multicolored cone-shaped get together hats — walked the paths to damped-down circus tunes. However concurrently, birds took to gleeful squawking and the solar made a shock look, lifting the temper.
Van Beirendonck plied sartorial juxtapositions, reminiscent of slender jackets and tops paired with extensive pants. An azure micro bomber, with a white smiley face on its again, was worn with roomy trousers. A see-through trench-blazer with purple smileys overlaid broad orange-and-white-checked pants.
“I used to be trying to find new silhouettes and new volumes,” the designer mentioned. “It’s been awhile since I labored that near the physique.”
Van Beirendonck’s palette sprang from mild blue and pink. The beginning of his present had lighter-colored clothes that had been darker by its shut.
“Virtually like a thunderstorm,” he mentioned, explaining the final items had been made with little stitchwork. Van Beirendonck laser-cut massive bulbous shapes out of Alcantara, which match by means of slits — puzzle-piece-like.
For extra Paris males’s spring 2025 critiques, click on right here.